Author Topic: Keyless entry drama (55plate hatch)  (Read 3134 times)

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Offline tomOO

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Keyless entry drama (55plate hatch)
« on: November 16, 2014, 12:46:36 PM »
Hi all,
Recently bought my 55plate 1,6 auto and have a really irritating problem with the keyless entry aka remote central locking.
Advance warning - this is going to be a long shot but I feel obvious to share all the "progress" so far so someone might help me out with some clever input..

So the damn thing only works when it wants. Sometimes I can’t lock the car with the fob, or when I manage to do so a while later it won’t unlock and I have to use the key to get in.
Got the car with 2 keys and fobs, the spare fob doesn’t work at all not even with new battery and isn’t recognized by the car on re-programming (same Visteon fob as the primary one) No obvious sign of damage in/outside and the key starts the car.

In round  1:
- pulled my working fob apart to inspect battery. It read 3.07V which isn’t bad, the leds flash all the time, buttons not worn
-disconnected the battery for several hours in the hope that it would drain any stupidity from the computer and because it needed charging, and then replaced it because the charging didn’t make it crank any better, so now I have a brand new battery too
- re-programmed the fob 4-5 times
- bought a used control unit (67 5DZ) from a deceased 04 plate M3 (I got it out of the car myself)
None of the above had any effect on the operation of the cursed unit what so ever. (yayy :/ )

So in round 2:
- bought a brand new branded battery for the fob which proudly measures 3.21Volts and does absolutely nothing to solve the problem (double yayy :/ )
-bought a second fob off eBay, but managed to get one with a Mitsubishi PCB which is not recognised by the car, as the currently working one is a Visteon. (tripple yayy! my bad tho..)

While I was anxiously (and rather pessimistically) waiting for the new (used) fob to arrive though I realized that the problem can’t be with my fob after all, and here’s why:  When I successfully lock the car with the bloody fob (which I manage to do 7ish out of 10 times) and then later on I can’t unlock it with the fob (also 7-8 out of 10 times so the statistics for unlocking are far worse) and have to use  the key to open the door, the alarm goes off. And here’s the catch:  I am able to deactivate the alarm with the fob EVERY TIME on the first push of the button. That leads me to believe that if the fob was faulty I would not be able to do so (and I’d be in a pile of poo with a beeping car and quite possibly locked engine immobilizer).

It could still be the keyless entry control unit, but I seriously doubt that both units would work and not work with the same success/fault rate so I’m pretty sure I can rule that out.

I never have door ajar warning coming on when I shouldn’t,  and the keyless entry self diagnostic completes as it should (quadruple flippin' yayy! )

I feel shot and irritated having exhausted most of the obvious things I could think of..

Oh, one more thing. When the car refuses to react to locking command from the fob, If I open and close any doors nothing happens, but if I pop the key back in and put it back to ACC or turn the engine on and off and then shut the door, sometimes it will react to the remote but there’s never any telling what will happen when I want to unlock it later on. 

Anybody any ideas??

Offline nickorossa

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Re: Keyless entry drama (55plate hatch)
« Reply #1 on: April 30, 2018, 10:31:29 AM »

I seem to be having similar issue to what you described in your post.

Did you manage to solve the issue?



Mazda 3 Forums UK

Re: Keyless entry drama (55plate hatch)
« Reply #1 on: April 30, 2018, 10:31:29 AM »