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Vehicle Lighting / Rear LED light not working
« Last post by Markf on December 13, 2018, 10:12:45 PM »
Hi

I recently bought a 2004 Mazda 3 sport 2.0 which has LED rear lights. One of the lights has failed and what I would like to know is do I need to replace the whole light or is there a way to replace the LED bulbs? The owners manual contradicts itself, it says that a Mazda technician must carry out LED bulb replacement but then it says bulb replacement is not possible...very confusing. Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks
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I take it nobody else has had this issue hence the lack of replies in months.
Looks like a trip to a dealer then.
As for checking the manual, yes first thing i did (after trying to figure it myself for far too long).
Only thing the manual states is that the time will not be displayed if the GPS is not receiving signal, which is probably the issue, but I can't find any clues as to where the GPS receiver is, how to check it, reset it, etc etc.
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Vehicle Lighting / Re: Headlight dipped beam
« Last post by hanix on December 13, 2018, 09:32:07 AM »
As you should still be in warranty,take it to a main dealer and get them to verify that all is as it should be.
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Vehicle Lighting / Re: Headlight dipped beam
« Last post by Tall333 on December 13, 2018, 08:35:57 AM »
Sounds like they need adjusted. Shouldn’t be too tricky for a local mechanic.
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Vehicle Lighting / Headlight dipped beam
« Last post by EWT on December 12, 2018, 08:06:32 PM »
I have been getting flashed by oncoming traffic when on dipped beam.  This happens once or twice every morning.   

I now drive on full beam until I am JUST in full view of oncoming cars before dipping the beam. This so that they know I have dipped the headlights.

I understand that the beams are auto adjusted on startup, so I don't think there is any way for me to adjust them.

I notice that my dipped beam illuminates the rear of the car in front right up to the bottom of their rear window. That is to say the cabin of the car in front is not lit up and I cannot see the occupants. Bearing this in mind is the auto adjustment on dipped beam OK, or do I need to take it to a dealership?

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Mazda 3 / Re: Note to new buyers of old 2's and 3's....beware underbody rust!!
« Last post by Willpower on December 12, 2018, 05:37:44 PM »
Rust is an ongoing problem that never goes away.  Moisture & metal left to their own devices will create Iron Oxide- Rust. It is inevitable and one of the major reasons why cars end up in the breakers yards.
The only thing you can do is to try and keep on top of it.  However many car owners do not have the facilities or capability of checking the underside of their cars.  So the answer as you say is to go to some else to do it for you.

Your prime concern here should be - reliability.   Are they going to do a good job ?  After wire brushing or blasting whichever they do, are they going to treat the affected area with a rust inhibitor (as I suggested above)  before coating with underseal.  You would never be able to see and check for yourself.  So you have to rely on their reputation, that they did a proper job.

If you are acquainted with the garage and trust them, then fine. Otherwise ask around  locally see if anyone else has been in the same situation and what they did.

Regarding re application.  The product I linked above is widely known as the best option. How often you need to do it is a totally unknown factor.  Geographical area / road surfaces / meteorological conditions, are all unknown quantities.

My advice would be to check underneath every year to see if the integrity of the underseal coating has been broken and at that stage treat immediately.
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Maintenance / Re: Maintenance
« Last post by Engineer Andy on December 12, 2018, 02:52:24 PM »
Thanks for your input. I do the occasional long drives at least once month but mostly it’s just driving to work. Now that I think about it, most likely I will stick to dealership unless they don’t do well then I’ll look around for dealerships close to me. Does our skyactiv petrol has problems with carbon deposits?

No problem.  I'll leave other members to answer that last question as I own a gen-1 car which is not a Skyactiv-G GDI but an old style port-injected 1.6 petrol (so no problems with carbon build up on the valves), and don't have any personal knowledge about any issues in that regard.
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Mazda 3 / Re: NEW MAZDA 3 UNVEILED
« Last post by Engineer Andy on December 12, 2018, 02:46:53 PM »
Love the look of the Fastback, especially the interior. The Hatchback looks good from the front but the back has the look of an old Alfasud.
Reviews suggest it rides really well also

Other than the continuing gripes in other areas, what will be interesting is to see how well they handle, compared to the previous versions which have fully independent rear suspension.  If it's a step back in that regard but better in terms of comfort, then it may have more mass market appeal (like the Golf) but at the expense of those people who like great handling.  I will give it a test drive at some point to see for myself.  I agree that, even though the hatchback has improved considerably in styling terms this time round, the saloon/fastback is the obvious winner looks-wise, and on that score the car I was looking for 13 years ago when I bought my gen-1 saloon.
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Mazda 3 / Re: Note to new buyers of old 2's and 3's....beware underbody rust!!
« Last post by aytch on December 12, 2018, 01:37:35 PM »
Hi and I very much appreciate your reply / advice...thank you!!
As I won't be able to do the job myself would asking the garage to wire brush / tidy up and apply Waxoyl alone be a solution?
If so, how often should the process be repeated?
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Mazda 3 / Re: Note to new buyers of old 2's and 3's....beware underbody rust!!
« Last post by Willpower on December 12, 2018, 09:52:19 AM »
The choice you make is obviously personal and in accordance with your foreseeable fortunes.

However I must point out that  wire brushing and covering with underseal is not going to stop the rust.  In fact it could make matters worse.  Covering rust with an impermeable coating (underseal) only gives the rust progression one way to go and that is inwards and deeper into the available metal.  This of course would then be unseen under the underseal and would eventually result in catastrophic failure later on.
 
As the rust has already taken hold, there are proprietary products that will chemically alter the rusted metal and help to prevent further contamination. 
So my advice would be a 3 step process.

1)  Wirebrush. Even to the extant of using a power tool with suitable attachments. However caution is required that you do no worse damage to the surrounding area.
2)  Use a proprietary product such as Kurust       https://www.hammerite.co.uk/product/kurust/     to coat the affected area.
3)  Cover the entire underbody with a suitable underseal product.   such as     https://www.halfords.com/motoring/paints-body-repair/rust-removal-treatment/hammerite-underbody-seal-500ml

Hope this helps
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