Recent Posts

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 10
I've just got/sold my Mazda 3 / Mazda 3 owner
« Last post by KenMavor on Today at 03:04:28 PM »
Just bought a Mazda 3 1.6 S for my wife.

Very good condition, 64k miles, clutch just replaced under warranty.

Couple of areas I will be investigating are...

1.  Trying to retrofit cruise.  Will buy second hand steering wheel with cruise buttons and see how it goes.
2.  Upgrade front door speakers.  Anyone any idea of size and shape and any recommendation?


That looks like a mod for sitting posing on private ground. It wouldn't pass an MOT. Well not a proper one.
What are those wheels?

Only just joined hence the reason for commenting years down the line   :D
Vehicle Electrics / Re: Additional Key Fob for 2010 Mazda3 Sport
« Last post by misar on July 13, 2018, 10:02:18 PM »
Its not clear from your posts if you noticed that both the key fob and the key blank have to be programmed to the car separately. The key blank holds the immobiliser chip (transponder) in the plasic bit at the top so having one cut is not enough.

The thread linked by Willpower says while programming to turn the key in the ignition but if you have a 2.2L 2010 Sport I think it has keyless entry. In that case the keyhole for the ignition key is only for emergency use (no working fob) and the key does not turn.

I think back in 2010 Mazda were still using many Ford parts including the security system. Long ago I found some old instructions on the Mazda forums but quoting the corresponding Focus manual. They confirm that you must have 2 preprogrammed keys for your car. If you have keyless entry you turn the ignition on by pressing the button rather than turning the key. No mention of playing with the doors.
The thread was so Willpower may be able to find it:

Now to program the transponder, I have the Focus manual page in hand, here is the basic how-to.
Items needed:
1. 2 pre-programmed transponder keys.
2. 1 new transponder key
The timing is critical to this procedure, please read through the entire procedure before attempting.
1. Insert one of the pre-programmed transponder keys and turn the ignition to "on", leave on for at least one
second (I wait until the red key symbol in the instrument cluster extiinguishes), remove the key from the
2. Within 5 seconds insert the second pre-programmed key and turn the ignition to "on" for at least one second
but no more than 5 seconds (use the key symbol for this as well) then remove the second key.
3. within 10 seconds insert the new key in the ignition and turn the ignition to "on", if you are successful the red
key symbol will illuminate then extinguish after about a second.
If you are not successful the red key symbol will flash repeatedly to indicate that you have inserted an invalid
key.  Remove the key, wait a minute and try it again, it took me a few times to get it perfect and I had done it

I have never tried this but back in 2009 I bought an expensive spare pre-programmed key from a dealer and looked for instructions in case I lost one of the two that came with the car!

Vehicle Electrics / Re: Additional Key Fob for 2010 Mazda3 Sport
« Last post by arthurd123 on July 11, 2018, 04:11:06 PM »
I would suggest that you need to obtain a key fob with the same part no.  as this will comply with the required frequency criteria required for your car. 

Also this might be of interest to you :-


Thanks for clarifying this for me, I have found one on eBay with exact same part number so will go for that.

Appreciate the link as well... ;)
Mazda 3 / MOVED: Additional Key Fob for 2010 Mazda3 Sport
« Last post by Willpower on July 11, 2018, 03:46:23 PM »
Vehicle Electrics / Re: Additional Key Fob for 2010 Mazda3 Sport
« Last post by Willpower on July 11, 2018, 03:45:59 PM »
I would suggest that you need to obtain a key fob with the same part no.  as this will comply with the required frequency criteria required for your car. 

Also this might be of interest to you :-
Vehicle Electrics / Additional Key Fob for 2010 Mazda3 Sport
« Last post by arthurd123 on July 11, 2018, 02:55:22 PM »
Hello everyone,

Hope someone can put me on the right track here, I have just purchased a 2010 Mazda3 Sport, love the car in fact never knew they were so much fun to drive. I do have one issue though as per my title.

The car came only with one 3 button smart fob (Open,Close & Alarm buttons), I have been searching for info on this on this very forum but couldn't find any compatibility lists for these key fobs. I have contacted a local Auto Locksmiths but they have quoted me £280+VAT for a replacement, which I'm not willing to pay for obvious reasons.

My current key fob lists as SKE11B-03 the ones of eBay are usually SKE13E-01 and my simple question is will the SKE13E-01 key fob work with my car or do I need to get an identical part number (SKE11B-03)? The SKE13E-01 version also comes with 3 identical buttons. I can also get a key blank and get it cut elsewhere so that shouldn't be a problem right?

I'm definitely aware that afterwards I need to get someone to program the car to work with this replacement key fob, once I know the above will work I will look for someone who can do it for me.

Thank you for your help in advance.

Vehicle Entertainment / Navigation Systems / Re: Trouble connecting to iPod
« Last post by Happy Jack on July 06, 2018, 07:32:40 AM »
Thanks for the welcome. I was passing a dealership yesterday so took it in on the off chance; apparently the software update that was done a fortnight ago was replaced by a newer update barely days later. Had it updated again and fingers crossed everything is working fine now. Many thanks for the advice.
Mazda 3 / Re: Mazda 3 from Scotland - why so cheap?
« Last post by moozmooz on July 06, 2018, 01:27:19 AM »
"I would imagine it is due to the dreaded corrosion problem caused by salt on the roads in Scottish winters"

I'm not sure where the north/south line lies for salt/no salt, so I'm not too sure if that's the answer. This past winter, we didn't have all that much snow, but enough for buses to stop running - as far as I know, the only route taken off in Scotland - because Stagecoach considered the road too dangerous. They were right. After a fortnight, the council put out diggers to chip their way through 150mm of compacted snow/ice which, by then, was like polished rock. Roads seem more likely to get salted when there's no need, and that's when it does most damage to vehicles.

I took to the hills yesterday and the "Scottish winters" line reminded me of a conversation I overheard in Tomintoul museum a few years ago. The "curator" was busy telling a gullible tourist, and everybody else within a sizeable radius, how the village was cut off by snow for up to 11 months of the year.

No sign of any snow yesterday, only some gritting on the road above Cock Bridge, but that was most likely for melting tar or maybe an obnoxious motor cyclist had been splattered. Too many of them seem to see the Lecht as a race track.

My 2005 Gen 1 underwent major surgery last week for its MOT. Corrosion on sills extending into wheel arches front and rear. I reckon three contributing factors. Salt corrosion, spread of corrosion from the wheel arch recall problem, which wasn't repaired properly and misuse of trolley jacks by tyre fitters.
Many years ago, I was getting the front tyres on my SAAB 96 replaced. Quick look and the jack was positioned at the front of the car dead centre. Stopped the guy and asked what he was doing. He reckoned there was a handy bit of tube running across the front, and he was right. Only problem was it was the exhaust! Before I bought the car, the sump was replaced as it had been punctured by...………...

As for the price difference, I don't know how the Mazda dealer density varies Scotland to England nor the sales rate. Nor do I know the car to population density difference between Scotland and England, but I'd doubt if there were major differences. I suspect, as far as trade is concerned, price difference may be due to cars being more mobile closer to bigger population centres - easier and cheaper to move cars relatively short distances by transporter- so easier to sell, so prices stay up.

Another major factor may be the difference in the structure of car sales between Scotland and England. I suspect there are more used car dealers in England than in Scotland, where the majority of cars seem to go through dealerships. 

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 10