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21
Wheels/Tyres / Re: 80 to 108 !!!
« Last post by Canada_Bob on January 16, 2018, 07:07:01 PM »
did a notice about rotation show on the Dashboard?
It did an mine a t about 18000 miles.
So wondering if it will show again since I had all my tyres changed?
No, there wasn't any indicator light, the car only has 15k on it, looks like yours {at least} was set from new by Mazda or the Dealer, but it's EASY to set that up on your cars computer to flag up to when you'd prefer it to be based on the type of driving that you do.
22
Wheels/Tyres / Re: 80 to 108 !!!
« Last post by Canada_Bob on January 16, 2018, 06:56:48 PM »
An interesting question, which I also asked some 12 years ago with my Gen 1 when we didn't have the tyre gunk option and had no choice but to change the wheel at the side of the road.
 
At the time, the dealer informed me that they were instructed to torque the wheel nuts to between 100 ft/lbs - 135 ft/lbs (a margin of 35ft/lbs). But this is in a considerably higher range than you have been quoted. 
As it is, your margin is only (28ft/lbs)

The problem as I see it is, the torque applied, has got to be subject to the inherent tensile strength of the bolt. But perhaps with modern casting methods, the specification of the wheel bolts has been reduced over the years.   

If I were in your position I would consider using the middle value, i.e  somewhere around 90ft/lbs.

The thing is, 28ft/lbs is quite a lot, it's 35% of the lower end of the recommended scale, that seems a lot to me. I'll probably go with 90ft/lbs but I'm surprised that Mazda {and probably other Manufacturers} can't/don't nail it down closer than they do.

As for the tensile strength of the steel, well Mazda would know that within <1% my concern is the nut runners over torquing and damaging or stripping the studs.
23
Wheels/Tyres / Re: 80 to 108 !!!
« Last post by Willpower on January 16, 2018, 05:47:30 PM »
Can't say without looking, but the stud size and offset may be different from Gen 1 to Gen 3. The range might also be to allow for different wheel sizes.

And studs, bolts, nuts are usually forged from round bar.

Totally get what you are saying and you are quite correct regarding different sizes vs generations.  But that doesn't get away from the fact that the steel, when forged as round bar will have differing tensile strengths dependant on the component elements that make up that steel. It then comes down to whether the Mazda spec requirement was changed at some time.

Forming round bar into bolts, has no effect on the inherent strength of the steel.  It's also unlikely that stud size and offset or wheel size would have any relevance. 

24
Hello all,

Apologies 1st post is a beg for knowledge! I’m fitting a Kenwood single din hu in my 2006 Sport but the only adapter for a the hu I can find that list that they fit a 2006 Mazda 3 but only non-Bose equipped cars... I think the issue is that I also need to ‘de-amplify’ the signal that comes out of the hu so that it will work with the OE Bose amplifier.... but the only kits I can find that are designed to do this with Mazda OE bose units say that they are compatible with 2009-on 3s, or the RX-8, or all NB and NC Mx-5s... do any of you know if any of these will work, and if so, which?

http://www.caraudiodirect.co.uk/install-adaptors/mazda/3/ctsmz005-2-stalk-adapter-for-mazda-3

http://www.caraudiodirect.co.uk/ctsmz001-2-stalk-adapter-for-mazda-6-2007

http://www.caraudiodirect.co.uk/connects-2-ctsmz012-2-stalk-adapter-for-mazda-mx-5

Any help at all much appreciated, I’m totally stumped!

TIA

Doug
25
Wheels/Tyres / Re: 80 to 108 !!!
« Last post by moozmooz on January 16, 2018, 05:24:25 PM »
Can't say without looking, but the stud size and offset may be different from Gen 1 to Gen 3. The range might also be to allow for different wheel sizes.

And studs, bolts, nuts are usually forged from round bar.
26
Wheels/Tyres / Re: 80 to 108 !!!
« Last post by Willpower on January 16, 2018, 04:19:20 PM »
An interesting question, which I also asked some 12 years ago with my Gen 1 when we didn't have the tyre gunk option and had no choice but to change the wheel at the side of the road.
 
At the time, the dealer informed me that they were instructed to torque the wheel nuts to between 100 ft/lbs - 135 ft/lbs (a margin of 35ft/lbs). But this is in a considerably higher range than you have been quoted. 
As it is, your margin is only (28ft/lbs)

The problem as I see it is, the torque applied, has got to be subject to the inherent tensile strength of the bolt. But perhaps with modern casting methods, the specification of the wheel bolts has been reduced over the years.   

If I were in your position I would consider using the middle value, i.e  somewhere around 90ft/lbs.   
27
Wheels/Tyres / Re: 80 to 108 !!!
« Last post by bobmax on January 16, 2018, 03:55:46 PM »
did a notice about rotation show on the Dashboard?
It did an mine a t about 18000 miles.
So wondering if it will show again since I had all my tyres changed?
28
Wheels/Tyres / 80 to 108 !!!
« Last post by Canada_Bob on January 16, 2018, 02:32:02 PM »
The car will be going in for the 2 year service next week, the standard stuff, but the Dealer asked me if I'd like to have the wheels rotated, sounds like a plan to me, there's just 15k on the car. The concern I have about wheel rotation is, I can't remember ever seeing a dealership or a mechanic calibrating nut runners, "one size {torque} doesn't fit all" it's a sore topic for me as an Acura Dealership mechanic stripped the studs on all 4 wheels on a car I had 20 years ago.

I'm keen not to have that happen again, so I'll be asking them what their nut runner is set at before they do any damage that folks wouldn't be aware of until they lost a wheel. On looking at the Manual {page 7:19} the recommended torque is 80 ft/lbs to 108 ft/lbs, I'm an old guy, I can't think in Newtons  ??? but the range from 80 to 108 seems a hell of a lot, why would a mechanic / Dealership set at 108 when 80 would do ?

108 sounds high to me, might be a struggle for some folks to change a wheel if it's torqued up to 108, at the same time 80 seems a bit low ?

Maybe somewhere in the middle would be the way to go, but it's the scale of the range 80 to 108 that has me concerned, the wider the scale the higher "mid range" is going to be, a bit like tyre pressures, 35 to 37 seems a sensible target range but you'd think that Mazda {et-al} would be able to narrow the scale closer than presented in the manual, or am I missing something here ? it's  not something that {like tyres} that's "load dependant".

I'd appreciate any thoughts on this...

Thanks.

29
Vehicle Electrics / Re: Auto lock
« Last post by Alfisto on January 16, 2018, 09:31:44 AM »
now that's interesting. There are a few occasions when I come back to mine and find it hasn't locked but I didn't know about the last door to be locked should be the drivers
30
Maintenance / Re: Mazda 3 2.2 awful mpg
« Last post by pritch1988 on January 15, 2018, 07:21:15 PM »
Hello! Cheers for the replies.

Haven't got a heavy foot! I meant to say! Lol.

I agree with the DPF EGR comment. Twice a week have a motorway cruise, 60-70 mile round trip and mpgs around 44mpg few hills and what not. The Dpf regen is the really killer, average goes from 44mpg to 36mpg after a regen. Is that normal?

Cheers
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