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A Mazda 3 doesnt have bulb warnings, as a result for led lights you dont need resistors (With one exception which I'll get to), people usually fit them to increase the draw of leds as some cars will read this as a blown bulb due to the low power consumption.

The exception is indicators because the relay is reliant on the draw to flash at the correct speed. If you fit led indicators you will need either resistors or a different relay.

interesting, many thanks!
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Vehicle Electrics / Re: Auto lock
« Last post by hanix on Yesterday at 05:33:04 PM »
Sounds like yet another example of useless technology. What's the point if it's so susceptible to misinterpretation of how it's supposed to work? I prefer to know my car's locked.

If they'd dumped this and fitted front and rear dash cams as standard, they might be using proven technology to the owner's advantage.
As there already is a forward looking camera it seems a shame that it can't be used as a dashcam.
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Wheels/Tyres / Re: 80 to 108 !!!
« Last post by Canada_Bob on Yesterday at 04:29:26 PM »
I looked in two owners manuals:
Thanks for taking the time...

No mention in either manual about alloy versus steel wheels but if any models came with steel I would have thought the torque should be different.
Makes sense to me...

Mine has alloys but no idea what torque has been used.
Doesn't exactly inspire confidence in what the mechanic was working to, I've yet to see a mechanic calibrate or even regulate the torque on his nut runner. Being a retired Airworthiness Inspector the "one size fits all" mentality doesn't sit well with me...

PS I just noticed the OP's name and flag!
Aye, and thereby hangs a tale...

PS2 Google found some tyre supplier recommendations:
Continental Tyres chart (2015, USA)            Torque in Nm
                                                          Steel rim     Alloy rim **
Mazda all current types – except *        103             103
* CX-5, 3 2013>, 6 2013>                     128                –
* MX-5                                                    98               98
** Please observe different specifications of rim manufacturer where required.
Pure Tyre (2018, UK)
Wheel Nut Torque setting for: 09 - 14 Mazda Mazda 3
(All tyre options)
Torque:  103 NM,  76.0 ft-lb
So 103 N.m falls nicely into the 2010 set of Mazda values whereas the Continental 128 N.m for steel is in the middle of the 2013 range. I would be inclined to go for 103 N.m unless I found specific advice to go higher for my alloy rims.

More confused than ever now  ;) 76ft/lbs would be lower than the minimum torque in the M3 Manual  :-\

I guess asking Mazda would only finish up referring us back to Chapter 7 verse 19...

Odd how this curiosity hasn't been run to ground before ?
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Wheels/Tyres / Re: 80 to 108 !!!
« Last post by Canada_Bob on Yesterday at 04:05:20 PM »
[PS I just noticed the OP's name and flag! I wonder if the wheel type varies between N America and Europe. However, the 2010 manual I quoted was a USA download but the 2013 one was a UK download.
Err, well, bit of an explanation required there Misar, although originally from Lancashire {and back there now} I lived/worked in Canada for 31 years, during that time when I came back for visits the lads "back home" awarded me the nom de plume of "Canada Bob" and it kinda stuck  :)

Have to say I've been called worse in my time  ;) resulting in someone rigging my car {a Mercury Montego} with 6oz of C4 plastic explosive, thankfully the RCMP discovered it and defused {removed the 5v detonator} from the C4, if it had gone off I'd have been spread thinner than the paint on the car...
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Wheels/Tyres / Re: 80 to 108 !!!
« Last post by Canada_Bob on Yesterday at 03:54:20 PM »
Hello Misar,

I'm not an engineer
Aye, well, I was {retired now}, but, you don't have to be a jockey to know a horse when you see one  :)

but surely the range is set by two different factors. The low end would be the smallest torque required to ensure the nuts don't come loose.
Agreed...

The high end would be the maximum torque before you exceed the tensile strength of the bolts or strip the thread - or in the case of alloys distort the rim or the stud hole surfaces.
We would need a hefty spanner or even a hefty air tool to exceed the tensile strength of the bolts, but damaging the threads isn't beyond the ability of a mechanic, been there, had that done. Distorting the alloy wheels certainly is a concern though...

Hence any value within the range is fine but the key issue is to be above the minimum recommended. This might depend on whether the wheel is steel or alloy and also the shape of the nut/wheel mating surfaces.
The thing is, far as I know all M3's have alloys, if that's the case then it doesn't make sense to have such a wide margin for the torque, add to that 108 ft/lbs might be too high for some folks to remove a wheel in an emergency or just to do their own tyre rotation etc...

Feel free to discuss further!
Thanks for your thoughts Misar, appreciated...
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Wheels/Tyres / Re: 80 to 108 !!!
« Last post by Canada_Bob on Yesterday at 03:38:37 PM »
Doing a bit more searching amongst data referring to my Gen 1  I found this .
Wheel and Tire Installation
1.   When installing the wheels and tires, tighten the wheel nuts in a criss-cross pattern to the following tightening torque.
Tightening torque
88.2-117.6 N·m {9.00-11.99 kgf·m, 65.06-86.73 ft·lbf}

Of course the first and very obvious item is the discrepancy between what I was told verbally and what is written here.  Quite bizarre...   
However what strikes me is the value shown in N-m  i.e.   88.2 - 117.6 N-m     Are you sure it said ft/lbs in your manual ?   because the values shown here are not too far away from those you quoted in your initial post, but in different units.
I shall see if I can find anything further relating to the Gen 3
Thanks for the above, "two heads" and all that, the values I got were direct from the M3 Manual, and they are in ft/lbs, I can't get my head round ft/lbs it's easy for me {at my age} to visualise, can't say the same for Metric units or Newtons {even though he was a local lad}, but the 80 to 108 is ft/lbs as shown on page 7:19 of the M3 Manual.

Having said that about Newtons, I know that you just add 35% to go from ft/lbs to Newtons, but why convert to something you don't want to work in anyway sigh, add to that although my torque wrench isn't as old as Newton it is almost as old as me, so the only calibrations on it are in ft/lbs...

Like you say, it is bizarre at times, no matter what units we prefer to use though that 35% from low to high seems way too much to me...

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Thanks for reply thought that would be the case oh well might get camera if I can find one cheap enough
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Our Sept 2015 SE-L has rear sensors, not front, and no notifications on screen - just the audible beeps.
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Maintenance / Re: Mazda 3 2.2 awful mpg
« Last post by cwilliams255 on Yesterday at 01:26:11 PM »
My regens are about once per tank and a half I think. Instantaneous mpg is terrible 9mpg or something for 10 minutes but it doesn’t really affect my average as it’s over 20k or so. How often does it do a regen on dpf you reckon?
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Vehicle Electrics / Re: Auto lock
« Last post by moozmooz on Yesterday at 12:32:54 PM »
Sounds like yet another example of useless technology. What's the point if it's so susceptible to misinterpretation of how it's supposed to work? I prefer to know my car's locked.

If they'd dumped this and fitted front and rear dash cams as standard, they might be using proven technology to the owner's advantage.
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